Cleaning rod guide seal?
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  1. #1
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    Default Cleaning rod guide seal?

    I got this rod guide from Sinclair marked as 6.8spc but I'm not convinced it's correct. It looks like it will seal in the start of the Chamber rather than the neck area. Isn't the purpose of the guide to seal the Chamber and prevent "stuff" from getting in there? I always thougt it should seal somewhere in the neck area. Did Sinclair just mark up a 270 guide as 6.8 and f¥€£ me on this thing?IMG_20170319_44935.jpg
    I'm just asking....
    Getting tired of waiting for my Gun and looking at all these new gizmos I wanna try out.

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    I have two bore guides, one for the 6.8 and one for the 5.56 and they both have the O-ring set back a bit like that. I believe they are Sinclair but not handy to check right now. A quick search of midwayusa.com shows most of them looking like the ones we have so I see these as normal. The neck area of the chamber gets a tight fitting patch through it when you remove the guide and run a dry patch through the bore.
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    6.8 SPC the most versatile MSR Cartridge available in the AR 15 style firearms.

  3. #3
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    They just seal in the chamber area and keep stuff from running out in the area to the rear of that. Keeps cleaning fluids etc. from getting all in your fire control group.
    01 FFL, NRA, GOA, NAGR
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  5. #4
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    Exclamation

    Personally, I think the things are a waste of money when just tipping the rifle muzzle down and placing a rag over the fire control group will keep anything from getting back there anyway. Solvents in the chamber won't hurt a thing and actually might keep your chamber cleaner besides. After cleaning my barrel I use a solvent wetted chamber/lug cleaning brush to clean the chamber and have a plastic bottle brush I wrap a patch around to wipe clean and oil the chamber. I use a cleaning star to wipe clean the barrel lugs. Keeping it simple with simple tools is how I prefer to do the simple task of cleaning. I see no reason on earth to spend $20-$30 for such a thing as a Sinclair bore guide when simple methods are simple and cheap. For them, marketing is what gets the sales and pays the bills. Keep it simple and buy more ammo with what you will pay for all the useless toys you could buy that complicate rather than simplify. Cleaning AR's is something a caveman can do with simple tools.

  6. #5
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    I agree to the idea of keeping things simple, but I am paying premium $ to have a gunsmith install a premium barrel in a rifle. I want to do what I can to not damage it.
    This "guide" should have been cut like a case and have a seal at the end. I diy what I can so I'm gonna have a go at this later. Found this pic online....maybe I'll cut the base of a case and attach it to the guid. IMG_20170319_21130.jpg

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psaudowatt View Post
    I agree to the idea of keeping things simple, but I am paying premium $ to have a gunsmith install a premium barrel in a rifle. I want to do what I can to not damage it.
    This "guide" should have been cut like a case and have a seal at the end. I diy what I can so I'm gonna have a go at this later. Found this pic online....maybe I'll cut the base of a case and attach it to the guid. IMG_20170319_21130.jpg
    You are going through a lot of work for something that's not going to do as much as you think it will. What damage do you think you will cause using a premium coated cleaning rod? Oh well, to each his own. Most experience match shooters using expensive Service Rifles don't use bore guides because they recognize that simple cleaning methods done with reasonable care and good coated rods will never harm a barrel cleaned from the breech end. Even with rifles that must be cleaned from the muzzle, such as an M1 Garand or M1A, the Garand Collectors Association did an experiment several years ago where they did 66,000 strokes in an M1 barrel with a jointed USGI cleaning rod while purposely dragging the rod around the crown of the muzzle. That test resulted in virtually unmeasurable damage to the barrel muzzle and crown and didn't effect the accuracy of the barrel in the process.

    But, I also know a lot of people that use them mostly because it makes them feel good they are doing what they can to protect. They are the ones with every tool made for man for cleaning, shooting, building and reloading. Most have spent double to triple what I spend and their rifles don't get any cleaner, aren't built any better, shoot any better nor does their ammo seem to get more accurate enough to warrant the expense.

    Reality is, 99% of barrels are going to wear out from use long before you will ever do enough damage to it with a coated cleaning rod to justify trying to extend it's life using a bore guide. Eventually, most everyone comes to realize the excess hype the manufacturers of these devices use on the shooting public and then realized getting back to basics has it's rewards.

  8. #7
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    Much the same as, cleaning after each five shots for the first hundred rounds.
    Clean it to be sure no trash from machining. Then brush does what?

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by lapriester View Post
    Personally, I think the things are a waste of money when just tipping the rifle muzzle down and placing a rag over the fire control group will keep anything from getting back there anyway. Solvents in the chamber won't hurt a thing and actually might keep your chamber cleaner besides. After cleaning my barrel I use a solvent wetted chamber/lug cleaning brush to clean the chamber and have a plastic bottle brush I wrap a patch around to wipe clean and oil the chamber. I use a cleaning star to wipe clean the barrel lugs. Keeping it simple with simple tools is how I prefer to do the simple task of cleaning. I see no reason on earth to spend $20-$30 for such a thing as a Sinclair bore guide when simple methods are simple and cheap. For them, marketing is what gets the sales and pays the bills. Keep it simple and buy more ammo with what you will pay for all the useless toys you could buy that complicate rather than simplify. Cleaning AR's is something a caveman can do with simple tools.
    They come in pretty handy when using foaming bore cleaner. The stuff expands rapidly and I really don't like having to wash down the fire control group and re-lube it every time I clean the bore. I use the foam when I am trying to remove copper from a fairly new barrel that isn't broken in good yet. Once you get it broke in it won't copper foul nearly as bad and then I only clean it when accuracy starts to fall off.
    01 FFL, NRA, GOA, NAGR
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  10. #9
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Psaudowatt View Post
    I got this rod guide from Sinclair marked as 6.8spc but I'm not convinced it's correct. It looks like it will seal in the start of the Chamber rather than the neck area. Isn't the purpose of the guide to seal the Chamber and prevent "stuff" from getting in there? I always thougt it should seal somewhere in the neck area. Did Sinclair just mark up a 270 guide as 6.8 and f¥€£ me on this thing?IMG_20170319_44935.jpg
    I'm just asking....
    Getting tired of waiting for my Gun and looking at all these new gizmos I wanna try out.
    P: Sinclair and the others specifically designed their guides this way. For each cartridge, the case-head area of the chamber is always the same and a convenient place to put the o-ring. The purpose of the guide is to keep the cleaning rod from entering the bore proper at an angle, with could (with an aluminum rod) cause abrasion in the leade (tapered start of the lands) area. These guides are not intended to keep solvent out of the chamber, although they do keep it out of the action proper. In my cleaning practice, I start by scrubbing the chamber with a short rod and wet brush/patch combo, then insert the guide, clean the bore, then remove the guide and mop the chamber dry. - CW
    No state shall make or enforce any law which shall abridge the privileges or immunities of citizens of the United States; - part of 14th Amendment to the US Constitution

  11. #10
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    That all seems like a solution looking for a problem. If you're worried about getting solvent in your lower, why not simply pull the other pin and remove the upper from the lower all together. Am I missing something here?

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