Stuck Bullet - Page 2
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Thread: Stuck Bullet

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tanlover442 View Post
    current issue.......kroil into the barrel muzzle end down(this is assuming the muzzle is closer to stuck bullet than chamber) let it soak till leaks out. Stand barrel muzzle down for a day or so. A solid brass rod about the same size as bullet and a light tap with a smaller steel hammer should push the bullet out. Good idea to lightly bevel the ends of the brass rod to allow for deformation without exceeding bore dimensions. Brass is soft enough it should not damage the barrel.


    for future reloading: suggest you use the 50 round loading blocks to avoid no charge reloading. 1-helps keep accurate count
    2-easiest to have a bowl/box of primed brass to pick out one at a time to charge, then place in loading block.
    3-BEFORE seating bullet..........hold the loading block up, this way you can see all the brass are charged and filled at the same level.

    good thing you didn't fire another bullet to clear the stuck one ..........THAT GETS VERY DANGEROUS.
    +1 on everything that Tanlover442 is saying.

    When I finish up a reloading job, I go get a beer and just weigh everything on a digital scale. It's fast and easy. Some will say that takes too much time!! I just don't G.A.S. as I have time to spend and I reload for many friends and family that depend on me to make sure all is safe.

    I also use a loading block and stand over it under a light, and look to see if anything looks wrong before I start stuffing bullets.

    On the other problem, brass rod after a good nose down soak with Kroil and push it out towards the muzzle and you will be moving on.

    Just my .02 for today.

    Be safe.

    Silver

  2. #12

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    Thanks all for the advice on removing the bullet and good double check procedures. I usually use a 50 rd block and check with a light while batch loading, but this time I got sloppy and loaded 5 extra rounds without using the block. Lesson learned, always follow the same procedure and always double check your loads. Tanlover442, I'm glad that when I heard the round not go off, I intially thought it was a hang fire and waited. Then carefully cleared the rifle and inspected the case and noticed the lack of a bullet.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  3. #13
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    I have the Hornady Auto Charger dispenser and seat and crimp the bullet while the next charge is dispensing. I have 2 RCBS single stage Partner presses side by side to seat and crimp. My Rock Chucker is for resizing and pulling bullets. This way I place the powder in the case and then seat and crimp before the next char my cases with lube prior to resizingge is ready. I will stop and check a charge on my balance beam scale every 10 charges or so to ensure the charges are still exactly the same.
    I use my loading block to spray lube evenly on them from all sides before resizing


    Just wait till next season!

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  5. #14
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    Thankfully, I've only ever had one stuck bullet. I was shooting commercial (CorBon) subsonic 308 loads in a Savage 10FP. Knew it as soon as I pulled the trigger. Went through a 30 caliber steel cleaning rod after soaking in Kroil for 5 days and got nothing. Bullet only traveled about 5". I kept hitting harder and finally stopped when a 3 lb sledge wouldn't move it. Ordered some long (12 or 14" IIRC) drill bits and used the 1/4" bit to very carefully drill out the center of the bullet. Even after it was cored out it still took the steel cleaning rod and 3 lb sledge to get the rest out. I could not believe how hard it was to get it out.

  6. #15
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    You can buy a pack of 1/4"X 36" wooden dowels from Amazon for a few $$ , the 1/4" dowels fit's the .68 barrel just right and you can tap the bullet back out, I did the same thing and now after charging the cases in the loading rack I tap the rack a few times and use a flash light to check the powder to make sure it's there and that all round show pretty much the same powder height before moving on to seating the bullet,, the dowels will come in handy if you ever need to drill out a gas port hole in the barrel also......

  7. #16
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    If the bullet's a tight fit the wooden dowel may not work - the end against the bullet will deform. (Don't ask me how I know this.) Might work with a lead bullet but those jacketed bullets are tight. May end up with the dowel stuck as well!

    John

  8. #17
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    You would be wise to use either a brass or aluminum rod and save yourself the grief of having wood wedged in with the bullet. Neither one will harm the rifling.

  9. #18
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    Default Kg12

    If it's a copper jacket bullet, why not pour some copper solvent in the barrel and let it do its thing for a few days. Kg12 is not ammonia based and does not rust up your barrel and does not stink like other copper solvents can. Only thing is that it contains some sort of cyanide so use gloves.... and ur brain.
    Don't use the kitchen table and ceep clean.

  10. #19
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    I will agree, a brass or aluminum rod would probably be better than the wooden dowel..

  11. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by wintys View Post
    I will agree, a brass or aluminum rod would probably be better than the wooden dowel..
    The wood dowel works great as long as the projo is headed out towards the muzzle whenever it gets tapped. If it stops, and after a heavier tap it doesn't move, brass rod works good.

    My experience is that the wood dowel will work if you drive it out towards the muzzle.

    The wood dowels, as mentioned earlier, have many other uses. I have three cats that can attest to that. They see that dowel, a fishing pole or a short horse whip and they retreat.

    Wood is good but sometimes it takes a little more.

    Silver


 

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