Pistol Reloading Question, TC, Acceptable Bullet Setback?

[ron169]

Figured that this would better apply to the handgun forum instead of 6.8 reloading.

Let me preface this by saying that I am a new reloader with less than 1000 rounds loaded, almost all .40 cal pistol rounds.

I have been worried that I have not been taper crimping the .40 cal rounds enough. I had some problems getting a bulge in the middle of the case if i went to tight, and think that I might have backed off too much on the seater/crimping die. My question is this. My fully reloaded and crimped round has a COL of 1.210 give or take. After loading the round in the magazine, loading the magazine in my glock, then releasing the slide, I chamber a round. I then extract the round and measure the COl to check for any setback. I repeated the test three times, and after the 3rd or so chambering, the COL had went from 1.210 to 1.190. So the bullet setback approximately 2 hundredths of an inch after being chambered 3 times. Im worried that when firing that the recoil as well as a more violent slide action would cause further setback. Do yall think that this is acceptable, or do I need to reset up my dies and run every finished round back through the seater/tc die?

[Rob072770]

I had feed issues till I stared using taper crimp sorry I can't remember set back as it is the least I,reload

[RMP-RLTW]

Are you chambering the same round 3 times? If so you can expect slight setback from even factory ammo.

If you are reloading .40 I highly suggest the redding GRX die. I think that lee is now making one as well under the name of bulge buster. This will help greatly in removing the bulge from brass fired from a Glock or any unsupported chamber.

Typically if you are able to drop a round freely into a chamber you are good to go. Also, many reloading manuals will have diagrams for each caliber that is reloaded to include measurements for all aspect of the cartridge. I highly recommend the Lyman manual as a first manual. Also if you do not have a copy of the ABC's of reloading it is an excellent resource as well.


Ryan
RLTW!

[walt214]

I have not seen a taper crimp die create the bulge you are getting, but a roll crimp will often bulge a case.
I have always taper crimped just enough for the case mouth to indent the bullet jacket (you didn't say you were loading lead bullets, did you?)
As Ryan stated, multiple chamberings will cause some setback. That's why its not recommended.
Unless you are loading to absolute max pressure, a set back of 20 thousands probably won't cause a problem.
If you are seeing bulged cases after firing them (as from a G 22), the bulge can be removed by the die set mentioned above.

[borderpatrol]

I only use enough crimp in .9mm, .40S&W or .45acp to remove whatever bell was needed to get the bullet started. I do use Redding's GX-r (?) die on all my .40 brass regardless of what gun it got fired from. Most, if not all of the bullet grip comes from neck tension, not any crimp you are applying.

Try Lee's factory crimp die in the last station of your press. Use a light crimp. Their tool is very inexpensive and works fine. I used a black sharpie to mark the head so I could "gage" how far I have it turned for adjustment purposes.

[L51S]

+1 on the Lee FCD. It will solve just about any problem you will encounter on straight wall pistol cases if you set it up right.