PDA

View Full Version : 1st day at the Range with my new 6.8 Barrett Rec7 - Disappointed!



JawbrkrCTC01
10-09-2011, 08:04 PM
If you read my post in the new members section - I recently purchased a brand new Barrett Rec7 6.8 SPC - it was in brand new, unfired condition - I attached a Nikon 4.5-14x40mm Buckmaster BDC scope on a Nikon single piece M-223 scope mount. Prior to heading the range I made sure the scope was level and boresighted with a Laserlyte boresighting kit. I purchased 3 boxes of Lellier & Bellot 110 gr polymer tip bullets, 2 boxes of Hornady 110 gr custom V-max, 2 boxes of SSA 110 gr Barnes TSX, and 1 box of 85 gr Barnes TSX. Even with boresighting I started off hitting over the target. I quickly dialed down to the target but once I got on the target the bullet strikes were very inconsistent. I'd get a 2 within an inch and the 3rd shot of the group would be 3" away. I couldn't get enough to consistency to effectively dial the turrets down to a point where I felt I was at a good zero. Once I get a reasonable idea that I was zeroed - or at least as good as I thought I was going to get, I started trying to tack the heart of a deer target. I shot 5-6 round on the edge of the heart all the way around the heart in a circle - never getting one round in the center of the heart. It was the wierdest thing. I was shooting at 100 yards - less than 5 mph wind. So I finish with the Lellier & Bellot first, then the Hornady - then the 85 grain SSA and I fired the first shot of the 85 grain and I wasn't even on the target.. I couldn't believe it. So I fired the rest of the box trying to figure out if it was trigger pull or the scope or the rifle - and I hit all around the target. It took me forever to get down to about 3" groups with the Lellier & Bellot and Hornady and now I felt I was back to Nothing.. I then switched to the 110 gr SSA Barnes TSX and I was on the target but still all over the place. At that point I was down to one box of SSA 110 TSX and I need to hold onto that box in case I get a chance to go hunting next weekend - the range I was at, Angeles Shooting Range in Los Angeles, does not carry any 6.8 SPC - I've had to purchase all of my 6.8 ammo on-line and I have 6 gun stores in my immediate area - but anyway - back to the shooting - I have never experienced such inconsistency in my life. I was a rifle expert in the military, I've made hunting kills at greater than 400-600 yards, I usually zero very easily although I prefer to use a shooting vice to do it because you just shoot a good group and then dial the crosshairs to the center of the group & your done - but I didn't do that this time. Has anyone had this problem with this round?! I usually prefer precision bolt action & Leupold scopes - so I'm thinking that may be a problem - maybe it was the trigger?! Maybe it's the Barrel?! I don't think I've ever had a 16" barrel.. I'm just trying to figure out what happened and where to begin with getting this rifle on target. I bought this rifle for hunting, I can't be off 3" at 100 yards on a shot on an animal.. that isn't ethical - I'll end up hitting them in the ass or missing completely at any decent ranges.. I'm looking for any advice from people with experience with AR 6.8 rifles with a stock trigger & 16" barrel.. I've made kills before at 400 yards with a Nikon Buckmaster scope, so I don't think it's the scope - even though it's only a $300 scope, I trust it. Or maybe it's me..? I guess I'll get a shooting bench and try again and see if it's better.. I think my first step is a drop in 3 lb trigger - other than that I have no idea where to start.. Anyway - sorry for venting - I'm definitely Frustrated, I spent over $3000 on this rifle - but I'm looking for some help & advice - Hope everyone had a great weekend - thank you for your time.. :a22:

BLADEGRINDER
10-09-2011, 08:13 PM
The first thing I would do is mount another scope and make sure it's rock tight, that would at least eliminate the scope as the problem. I have had shooting bouts like your saying and tightened everything up even more and they started shooting good.

ARMT Guy
10-09-2011, 09:04 PM
I agree. My gut call on this would be the scope and/or scope mount, but most likely the scope.

Try another scope, or even just the irons, just to make sure it's not the rifle itself.

If you don't mind me asking, what's your barrel set up? Is it 1/11, or 1/10? Does Barrett mark/stamp the barrels with the rifling type?

I'm waiting on a REC-7 upper to come in that I ordered recently. I know they used to be 1/10, but now Barrett's web site shows them as 1/11.

Hope you get everything sorted out with yours!

USMC_DS1
10-09-2011, 09:05 PM
Is it a milspec trigger = lots of creep and a heavy trigger pull? Could be an issue if you're used to a better trigger on the BA guns. SSA just put some more ammo on sale- factory 2nd's (http://www.ssarmory.com/ammunition_factory-seconds.aspx)if you need to order some more. GTG Ammo is another source as well. If you don't have another scope then try sighting in at 50m with some iron sights to eliminate the scope and/or mounts as the issues. Check for anything loose - gas block, muzzle break or flash suppressor, etc. I was seeing sub-MOA with my setup and factory SSA OTM rounds during my 1st time at the range.

68WJ
10-09-2011, 09:19 PM
Your rifle should be capable of better than that, even with a rough trigger so long as you do your part. As said, check your optics, maybe something is bad. Your mount isn't bridging the gap between the receiver and forearm rail? Then, verify your rifle is solid (barrel tight, muzzle device tight, etc). Good luck!

Geodoc
10-09-2011, 09:25 PM
My recommendation is a little different. Take off the scope if you've got iron sights and try the iron sights at 25 yards to see what happens. If that works, then have the scope mounted professionally by a gunsmith that knows what they're doing (not just a put the rings on and slap the scope in operation). That should fix it.

BTW, I use Lellier & Bellot 110 grain with my Thomson Center Arms Contender Carbine (16" bbl) and shoot dime/quarter size groups at 100 yards - so the ammo is pretty good in my opinion.

DB86
10-09-2011, 10:07 PM
I have a few of the nikon M223 mounts and on both of them I had to torque them tighter than they say in the directions. I can't remember the settings or what they call for without going through my files, but I will try to look and see what torque I set them on. Seems like it was 5-10 inch pounds more than required. I always take a needle and make a tiny mark on my scope next to one of the rings in both X and Y directions. This is to show if there is any movement. In both nikon mounts the scopes slid forward about 1/8 inch after about 20 or 30 rounds when torqued to nikons spec. hope this helps. I don't know if you used a torque wrench or not to install your optics/mount, but if not it does make a difference.

SpeakEz
10-09-2011, 10:16 PM
And take the sled next time. I would sure put it on a sled (Especially if you already own one) before I bought anything other than more ammo.

JawbrkrCTC01
10-09-2011, 10:20 PM
The twist on my Rec7 is 1/10 - I have A.R.M.S. Iron Sights - but I haven't even sighted them in. The scope is mounted pretty solid - and the scope is what I have to live with for a while.. the Trigger is the factory trigger and the pull is significant. I've had similar problems before with a Remington 700 SPS Tactical in .308 - I changed the stock to HS Precision, had a muzzle brake installed, and had a 3 lb trigger job done and ended up at about 1/2"/ 1/2 MOA at 100 yds.. So I'm thinking that I'm going to try the trigger first.. but I appreciate all of the information. I can live with 1 MOA for an AR Platform rifle - I'm not expecting precision rifle accuracy, but 3" or worse is not going to cut it especially when I could've spent $600 on a Rem 700 and a Leupold M4 and had $1000 leftover.. That's what makes me angry.. Anyway - thank you for all of the advice - I'll check everything out and see if anything is loose..

Also - 68WJ - My scope is mounted on the upper receiver with the eye piece directly over the stock mount.

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/4112/barrettrec7magpulafg2oc.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/88/barrettrec7magpulafg2oc.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

DB86
10-09-2011, 10:58 PM
Looks like your scope is touching your rear iron? May just be the picture, But if it is that may cause your accuracy problems. Also. 1 MOA is good for the AR, but some of the guys here have their 6.8s shooting .5 MoA or better @ 100 yards. So don't let that "a semi auto isnt as accurate as a bolt gun" saying fool ya. That is a real nice looking rig ya got there.

Ratdog68
10-10-2011, 02:49 AM
I agree, you should be displeased with those results... especially for the amount of money you shelled out for it. Merely for a point of reference... my 16" barrelled 6.8 AR (back when I had the Mil-Spec DPMS trigger parts in it) has delivered a best yet of .423" (6 shot) group at 100yds. And, I paid about 1/3 of what you did for mine.

I gotta agree with the others' comments on ruling out a scope issue to begin with. Is the crown damaged?

EWP
10-10-2011, 03:20 AM
Somethings not right, once on paper all of that ammo should have impacted within a couple inches of one another, I say the scope is bad or it's not mounted properly, that rifle should shoot 1" or better at 100 yards easy.

Try some of the Hornady 110gr BTHP ammo, it's about the best shooting factory ammo you can buy. SSA's 115gr OTM and GTG's 115gr OTM ammo is great also, it's best to use known accurate ammo when trouble shooting and not rounds like the TSX that only shoot good in some rifles.

fdxpilot
10-10-2011, 03:57 AM
Somethings not right, once on paper all of that ammo should have impacted within a couple inches of one another, I say the scope is bad or it's not mounted properly, that rifle should shoot 1" or better at 100 yards easy.

Try some of the Hornady 110gr BTHP ammo, it's about the best shooting factory ammo you can buy. SSA's 115gr OTM and GTG's 115gr OTM ammo is great also, it's best to use known accurate ammo when trouble shooting and not rounds like the TSX that only shoot good in some rifles.

I agree. I had horrible results with the S&B, and the Hornady V-max wasn't much better. My ARP really likes SSA 110gr ProHunters, and I have a 250rd box of SSA 115gr OTMs and some Hornady 110gr BTHP ammo to try the next time I get out to the range.

Also, if you were on paper with the 110gr loads, no there's no guarantee the 85gr TSXs would be anywhere close at 100yds.

LocoGringo
10-10-2011, 07:04 AM
I agree with the 2 posts before me. My 16" Bison Armory didn't like the Sellier and Bellot either and I was disappointed as well. But once I started shooting Hornady (not A-max) and SSA, the groups shrank quickly. If I remember correctly, it also took a good 40-50 rounds for my rifle to settle in. I now shoot SSA 115 grain OTM's and Hornady 120 grain SST's and get fantastic results. I shot a 3-gun match with my 6.8 this past weekend and used Good To Go's ammo (1st batch) and had good results as well.

Check the scope and get some good, known accurate ammo and be patient. I stay away from Sellier & Bellot and Remington.

jough
10-10-2011, 10:15 AM
If the groups are that big, then I would move the target in some, to say 50 yards, until you are comfortable. Then move the target out.

WVHunter1s1k
10-10-2011, 10:52 AM
Another possibility is the barrel might be misaligned.
I don't know much about that. But, I hear it can trow groups off. Some others here know more than I do about it. I think H had a sticky on it?

USMC_DS1
10-10-2011, 11:31 AM
If I remember correctly, it also took a good 40-50 rounds for my rifle to settle in.

Found this to be the case with my BHW barrel as well... Shot sub-MOA afterwards with SSA 115gr OTM. Plus my weapon breakin process involves function testing, resolving any component fitment/compatibility issues(bad AR Stoner mags causing FTF for instance), MB tuning(12 port ITS tunable break), getting comfortable with the AR and sand bags on a bench... personally took me a bit of shooting to transition from a dozen years of BA rifle bench work to AR. By 60 or so rounds things settled down including the shooter(yours truly) and sub-MOA insued. That's a high $$$ Barrett you have so I would expect nothing but MOA or less out of it provided you've considered all the comments/suggestions already provided above by others on this forum.

mcrik
10-10-2011, 12:20 PM
OK, this is how it looks to me:

1st check everything because it's the logical thing to do... But, it sounds like the man knows how to shoot and mount a scope.

It sounds like a barrel or the way it's mounted.

constructor
10-10-2011, 12:38 PM
When things shoot that bad it is usually because something is loose(scope mount or barrel nut) or the bullets may be contacting the inside of the muzzle device.
I had 2 LEO's from Chattanooga who mounted 1 scope ring on the receiver and one on the handguard...yeah that caused a problem.
recently a cracked scope mount...
broken barrel nut on a Troy/VTAC extreme rail...

Some rifles are overgassed and moving the carrier before the bullet leaves the bore, that leads to bad accuracy.
Also a very bad crown, have seen several hammer forged barrels that were cut with a dull bit, so bad the lands were mashed over into the groove. $320 barrels with crowns that bad=NO inspection at all

Rokman
10-10-2011, 04:04 PM
That's a bummer with such a nice carbine. Do you have another scope to try after you have first checked the mount? I have a couple of those Buckmasters (4.5x14 & 6x18) and I have been pretty happy with them, but it could have gone nuts on ya. My 6x18 took a good bump when my rifle feel over on a tile floor, and that thing went haywire. It's as bad as or worse then what you have mentioned.

ROPO68
10-10-2011, 04:37 PM
1st,This was mentioned before. I think that scope is sitting on top of the flip up rear sight. It if is touching, its too close.
2nd, the barrel is chrome lined. You need to shoot the living **** out of it to break it in. It needs to get hot! Chrome lining is not precise and can vary in thickness by a couple thousands of an inch from the chamber to the muzzle.
3rd, you are excited. make sure you use a very stable rest when you shoot next time. Pull on the strap attached to the front lug to eliminate any slop in the receiver during recoil or get a Accuwedge ($5). Also, if there is any slop in the buttstock/buffer tube, remove the stock from the buffer tube, put a small strip of electric tape against the length of the buffer and slide the stock back on. I have done this to a couple rifles and it works great. Or you can just slap on a lower with a full size stock if you have one available.

Just my .02 cents. Barrett makes a great product in my opinion, but since I build my own configurations for my purposes, I havent found a completely suitable rifle in their product line that I care to get into besides the M82A1.

this being said, I had the same issue with a chrome lined barrel in 5.56. I'll leave the manufacturers name out of it, but every manufacturer has this issue with chrome lining.

JawbrkrCTC01
10-11-2011, 08:58 PM
Okay - well I've been gone a few days - but wow - I really appreciate all of the good advice.. I've mounted many of my own scopes, just for starters and usually don't have a problem. Normally, Like I said before, I shoot precision bolt action rifles in .308 and I've had Buckmasters before, mounted on a Remington 673 Guide Rifle - got a black hawaiian sheep at 400 yds with it.. That Buckmaster - Guide Rifle combo would shoot better groups than a Remington 700 I had with an HS Precision thumbhole stock, trigger job, muzzle brake, badger bolt knob, and Leupold Mark 4 - also like I said before, I was a rifle expert in the military and I can get 1/2 inch groups with scopes I've mounted - BUT - Those rifles all have trick triggers with 3 lb or less trigger pull - so I'm not at all positive it isn't me.. I was frustrated with the trigger and it may be trigger pull - but it was All over the place, even when I felt I got a good trigger pull. I'm going to move it back to 50 or maybe even 25 yds just to zero and then move out to 100 - I'm also going to try to borrow or rent a shooting bench or vice - and I plan on getting a Wilson Combat or other aftermarket trigger - the trigger pull is clearly too heavy.

Another person asked about over-gassing - this is a piston system, so I shouldn't have that issue. The break in period may well be an issue and it is chrome lined all the way back to the action, so that may be a valid reason. I'll have to see if it gets better.

With regards to ammo - I am very limited - as I said, I plan to use this rifle for hunting and, I know this is ridiculous, but because of that, my ammo is limited - here in California where I plan to hunt, I cannot use ammo that contains lead - because the California Condor may end up eating my spent rounds, so I have to use all copper ammo - so my ammo is limited - I plan on sticking with the SSA 85 gr or 110 gr TSX and I'll zero that and stick to it. Never the less, I've never seen a rifle shoot off the paper from changing ammo..

The mount is a single piece Nikon M-223 mount with a forward cant and the rear of the scope is a mm off of the rear sight - although it may touch when fired, it's not touching now. I'll consider moving it forward or back to get it away from the flip up rear sight. But the rings themselves are solid and torqued down.

I don't see any issues with the brake or the crown inside.

I'm going to start with 25 & 50 yard shots change the trigger and get a vice and see if it changes.. It may be me secondary to the trigger pull - after that if I still have issues I'll consider a barrel swap or other issues.

One thing that did bother me is that the trigger is very basic and the buffer tube and stock are Commercial size which doesn't lead me to believe that they spared all expense to make a quality rifle. I was really surprised that the stock was commercial. But the forearm/handguard and iron sights are top quality and very comfortable - and reviews of the rifle have been nothing but excellent, even with the 1/10 twist.. So I'm torn.. I'll try to figure out what's wrong with either the rifle, the scope, the rings, or me - and hopefully keep the rifle - one thing is for sure - 3 MOA groups will not suffice for hunting - so something has to get fixed or replaced. I wanted to go hunting this weekend or next, now I'm not sure that I can and I spent over $200 in ammo last weekend that I can't afford to replace at this point - so my hunting is going to be delayed which makes me even more disappointed. Anyway - thank you for taking your time to read my petty complaints and personal issues - I really appreciate your time, consideration, and advice.. Have a great week.

constructor
10-12-2011, 11:53 AM
Okay - well I've been gone a few days - but wow - I really appreciate all of the good advice.. I've mounted many of my own scopes, just for starters and usually don't have a problem. Normally, Like I said before, I shoot precision bolt action rifles in .308 and I've had Buckmasters before, mounted on a Remington 673 Guide Rifle - got a black hawaiian sheep at 400 yds with it.. That Buckmaster - Guide Rifle combo would shoot better groups than a Remington 700 I had with an HS Precision thumbhole stock, trigger job, muzzle brake, badger bolt knob, and Leupold Mark 4 - also like I said before, I was a rifle expert in the military and I can get 1/2 inch groups with scopes I've mounted - BUT - Those rifles all have trick triggers with 3 lb or less trigger pull - so I'm not at all positive it isn't me.. I was frustrated with the trigger and it may be trigger pull - but it was All over the place, even when I felt I got a good trigger pull. I'm going to move it back to 50 or maybe even 25 yds just to zero and then move out to 100 - I'm also going to try to borrow or rent a shooting bench or vice - and I plan on getting a Wilson Combat or other aftermarket trigger - the trigger pull is clearly too heavy.

Another person asked about over-gassing - this is a piston system, so I shouldn't have that issue. What? what makes you think that, pistons are easier to over gas than a DI. The break in period may well be an issue and it is chrome lined all the way back to the action, so that may be a valid reason. I'll have to see if it gets better.

With regards to ammo - I am very limited - as I said, I plan to use this rifle for hunting and, I know this is ridiculous, but because of that, my ammo is limited - here in California where I plan to hunt, I cannot use ammo that contains lead - because the California Condor may end up eating my spent rounds, so I have to use all copper ammo - so my ammo is limited - I plan on sticking with the SSA 85 gr or 110 gr TSX and I'll zero that and stick to it. Never the less, I've never seen a rifle shoot off the paper from changing ammo..

The mount is a single piece Nikon M-223 mount with a forward cant and the rear of the scope is a mm off of the rear sight - although it may touch when fired, it's not touching now. I'll consider moving it forward or back to get it away from the flip up rear sight. But the rings themselves are solid and torqued down.

I don't see any issues with the brake or the crown inside.

I'm going to start with 25 & 50 yard shots change the trigger and get a vice and see if it changes.. It may be me secondary to the trigger pull - after that if I still have issues I'll consider a barrel swap or other issues.

One thing that did bother me is that the trigger is very basic and the buffer tube and stock are Commercial size which doesn't lead me to believe that they spared all expense to make a quality rifle. I was really surprised that the stock was commercial. But the forearm/handguard and iron sights are top quality and very comfortable - and reviews of the rifle have been nothing but excellent, even with the 1/10 twist.. So I'm torn.. I'll try to figure out what's wrong with either the rifle, the scope, the rings, or me - and hopefully keep the rifle - one thing is for sure - 3 MOA groups will not suffice for hunting - so something has to get fixed or replaced. I wanted to go hunting this weekend or next, now I'm not sure that I can and I spent over $200 in ammo last weekend that I can't afford to replace at this point - so my hunting is going to be delayed which makes me even more disappointed. Anyway - thank you for taking your time to read my petty complaints and personal issues - I really appreciate your time, consideration, and advice.. Have a great week.
Checking the crown takes a decent magnification, better done with a borescope.

jdgilbert
10-12-2011, 12:09 PM
I was wondering about the piston too, I know Barrett has a solid reputation but anyone can make a mistake. Between the sensitivity of piston systems and the unique mechanics of the 6.8 compared to the 5.56 they might not have the timing quite right. If the action is cycling prematurely it could be causing inconsistencies.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk

Swatdude
10-12-2011, 12:14 PM
Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't Barrett start out with 6.8, adding 5.56 later?

mikee
10-12-2011, 01:40 PM
Let someone else shoot and see if you get the same results. Remember KISS ( keep it simple stupid) you my be blinded by what happening.

EWP
10-12-2011, 03:13 PM
Contact SSA and talk to them about their experiences with Barret rifles, they have used more brands of 6.8 rifles than anyone and know how their ammo preforms in most of them and which ones have the most problems. I'm sure they may can shed some light on this for you.

JawbrkrCTC01
10-12-2011, 09:46 PM
I let my brother in law shoot it as well - he go the same result - two good shots in a tight group and then a 3rd and/or 4th shot 2-3" away.. It was wierd.. Like I said though, maybe it's me and the trigger pull - I'll have to get to the range again to find out.. but I am tapped for ammo and funds right now, so it won't be for a few weeks..

the action felt smoother than any AR platform action I've ever experienced - you couldn't even tell it had cycled.. So if it is the piston or the timing, I couldn't feel it. It's the smoothest operating AR I've ever had.. but it's also the only Piston system I've ever had.. I loved the action and the operation of the rifle. Funny thing is, the guy next to me had a brand new LWRC and his rifle wouldn't even cycle the spent cartridge out of the chamber - he was having nothing but problems and LWRC is as expensive or more expensive than Barrett.. I was quite surprised, he said he was taking it back to the store..

I'll figure it out one way or another - thanks for all of the advice - I really hope it isn't the crown.. that would suck.. but replacing the barrel is something I eventually want to do anyway - I don't want a 16" barrel - that's too short for me and my application - so I can fix that.. I'm going to start with an aftermarket trigger and go from there. Hope all is well - have a great weekend.

346CI
10-12-2011, 09:52 PM
Not trying to bash your rifle but for the money you could have got a much better rifle from Bison, ARP or Rainier. I never bought into the piston hype so I can't speak for that. DI works fine for me. If I did a lot of 3 gun fast fire stuff, the piston might be a little better.

That rifle would be in the mail now, on it's way back to Barrett. Hopefully they will get you up and running.

Equalizer_2
10-12-2011, 11:25 PM
Hope you get it sorted out soon. Anyone can produce an occasional poor performing product. If it is a poor performing product it is how they take care of it that counts.

mcrik
10-12-2011, 11:27 PM
I let my brother in law shoot it as well - he go the same result - two good shots in a tight group and then a 3rd and/or 4th shot 2-3" away.. It was wierd.. Like I said though, maybe it's me and the trigger pull - I'll have to get to the range again to find out.. but I am tapped for ammo and funds right now, so it won't be for a few weeks..

These results @ 50 yards?

Ezra Smack
10-12-2011, 11:31 PM
Exactly how did you bench rest your rifle?

jgraham
10-13-2011, 07:02 AM
Hmmmm.......it may just be a coincidence but I was reading another thread on another forum about a guy having similar accuracy problems with his new BCM upper. He also has a Nikon scope (M223) and a Nikon M223 scope mount. I wonder if there could be a problem with that mount??????


Here is the thread I'm referring to (note: this guy took some heat from the other members, I think because it is a BCM upper which is supposed to be TOP TIER and he was complaining about accuracy issues)

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=485311


It might be worth it to remove your scope, bring your target in a ways and shoot with your iron sights to see how it groups with them.

nemohunter
10-13-2011, 07:14 AM
a wandering zero is usually indicative of a bad scope or mounting system.

JawbrkrCTC01
10-13-2011, 11:19 AM
@2000ssm6 - I have read a lot about the contrast between DI gas system AR rifles and the new Piston systems and from what I've read the real advantages circle around the build-up in the gas tube in the M4 Carbine 16" barrelled versions - I guess study's have found that the build up of carbon in the gas tube occurs more rapidly in the carbine size rifles with a barrel 16" or less than it did in the M16 version with longer barrels - and the gas version also has more trouble firing when dirty, muddy, sandy, or after being immersed in water - if none of those things apply to your rifle - then you probably have no need or desire for the piston system. In reading articles & reviews in magazines like Black Rifle and the Book of the AR15 - I am seeing a trending toward the piston system - for example, Barrett began the AR platform with a DI rifle, the Barrett 468, and have since transitioned to the Rec7 Piston system - so I felt that they probably did enough research & testing to justify the change. So I wanted to be ahead of the curve so to speak. I still trust and believe in Barrett as a company and my rifle - I believe that the core product is good - I just think I may need to make some subtle changes to make it right for me. We'll see how it goes - but I'm optimistic. Have a great weekend.

JawbrkrCTC01
10-13-2011, 11:22 AM
Thank you nemo - I was thinking last night that maybe I would re-mount the scope.. Take a look at the picture, should the scope be further back? I usually just mount it based on where I place my cheek on the stock and according the eye relief of the scope - but I'm not used to an adjustable stock - so I can change where I place my cheek - I was just thinking that maybe I should re-position the scope.. and again, I do believe that the trigger pull has a lot to do with it. Possibly all to do with it - because I had similar issues with a Remington 700 SPS tactical and once I changed the trigger, added an HS Precision Thumbhole stock, and added a muzzle brake, the groups tightened up to less than 1/2 MOA.. So maybe it's just me?! Thanks for the advice.. Have a great weekend.

angsniper
10-13-2011, 11:41 AM
a wandering zero is usually indicative of a bad scope or mounting system.

I completely agree with this statement. If you have another mount I would use it with that scope and see what happens. If you still have issues I would consider the scope the culprit and replace it with something else.

EWP
10-13-2011, 12:07 PM
I completely agree with this statement. If you have another mount I would use it with that scope and see what happens. If you still have issues I would consider the scope the culprit and replace it with something else.

I also agree.

I worked at an indoor range helping sight in hunting rifles before deer season and every rifle that shot to different points of impact at 25 yds had a bad scope, once they brought a new scope the rifles all zeroed no problem with only 2 or 3 shots.

JawbrkrCTC01
10-13-2011, 06:00 PM
Well that would suck - although I plan to purchase a Nightforce 2.5-10x32 at some point, I don't have those funds right now - the Nikon Buckmaster 4.5-14x40 BDC I have is Brand New - so it would suck if it was the problem.. I'm hoping its the trigger.. Thanks for the advice, I'll check it out.. Have a great evening.

EWP
10-13-2011, 06:03 PM
Well that would suck - although I plan to purchase a Nightforce 2.5-10x32 at some point, I don't have those funds right now - the Nikon Buckmaster 4.5-14x40 BDC I have is Brand New - so it would suck if it was the problem.. I'm hoping its the trigger.. Thanks for the advice, I'll check it out.. Have a great evening.

Can't you just return/exchange the scope, take it back and get a new one, you can even call Nikon and I'm sure they will replace it for you for free.

nemohunter
10-13-2011, 06:19 PM
I know Nikon makes a good product BUT there is a reason you can buy Nikon refurbished optics most all the time from companies like midsouth. You dont sell two or three refurbs you sell hundreds. That fact alone has kept me from ever buying one.

ETA: a quick google brought up a quite a few different models that are for sale right now or have been sold as refurbs. everything from cheap to expensive models too.

http://search.incredimail.com/?q=nikon+refurbished+scope&lang=english&source=012051022105

kalwasart
10-13-2011, 07:11 PM
Many good suggestions by everyone and yes we have over 60 6.8 weapons in our safe.

1. Make sure the optics is tight.
2. Only one load to sight in with, KISS.
3. Trigger pull is not the problem you are to good a shooter.
4. over gassed, should not affect you, if you want remove the op rod and shot it manually.
5. Harrison is correct I would be concerned about the crown it will throw your rounds everywhere. The crown is the most important thing when it comes to accuracy.
6. Shoot at a large target at 50 yards from a rest. Only one load, keep your aim point always the same. Shoot ten rounds and check the target, If the rounds has a shot gun pattern, new barrel is needed. Also poorly made projectiles can give you a shot gun pattern but you had too many different rounds so I would rule that out. If you have vertical strings its the ammo, charge inconsistent.
7. Do not be affraid to return the weapon, most manufactures only throw 3-5 rounds before they ship it. We have sent 7 new wepons back this year alone.

Good luck

Art - SSA

346CI
10-13-2011, 08:35 PM
@2000ssm6 - I have read a lot about the contrast between DI gas system AR rifles and the new Piston systems and from what I've read the real advantages circle around the build-up in the gas tube in the M4 Carbine 16" barrelled versions - I guess study's have found that the build up of carbon in the gas tube occurs more rapidly in the carbine size rifles with a barrel 16" or less than it did in the M16 version with longer barrels - and the gas version also has more trouble firing when dirty, muddy, sandy, or after being immersed in water - if none of those things apply to your rifle - then you probably have no need or desire for the piston system. In reading articles & reviews in magazines like Black Rifle and the Book of the AR15 - I am seeing a trending toward the piston system - for example, Barrett began the AR platform with a DI rifle, the Barrett 468, and have since transitioned to the Rec7 Piston system - so I felt that they probably did enough research & testing to justify the change. So I wanted to be ahead of the curve so to speak. I still trust and believe in Barrett as a company and my rifle - I believe that the core product is good - I just think I may need to make some subtle changes to make it right for me. We'll see how it goes - but I'm optimistic. Have a great weekend.

I'm not going to turn someone off from a piston setup or their favorite brand. I know when I have my heart set on a particular weapon, most of the time I buy that one. They make a nice rifle, I just did a lot of research before jumping into the 6.8 game and figured ARP was the best bang for my buck after being not so impressed by a Noveske. I hope they get you worked out and can play along with the rest of us at the range and on the game field.

mcrik
10-13-2011, 10:01 PM
These results @ 50 yards?

If these problems occur @ 100yds or more......then it's not all that uncommon. It could be very ammo sensitive.

JawbrkrCTC01
10-19-2011, 11:10 PM
Actually - if you read the review of the Barrett Rec7 6.8 SPC in Black Guns 2010 Magazine - their testing of the rifle had 1" (1 MOA) groups at 100 yards with SSA 85 grain Barnes TSX and 1.5" groups (1 1/2 MOA) groups at 100 yards with the SSA 110 gr Barnes TSX.. So that's certainly not precision bolt action accuracy - but it would be sufficient - however, 1.5 MOA at 300+ yards is not accurate enough for me. So I'm going to have to find a way to improve on that accuracy, when I get to it - either thru a longer barrel or different brake, trigger, scope, etc.. Anyway, I just found the article pretty interesting.. Thanks again for all of the advice - going hunting Friday, Saturday, and Sunday for Bobcat, Bear, and Coyote, so we'll see how it performs. Have a great weekend.

jdgilbert
10-20-2011, 11:08 AM
That twist rate with a 16" barrel should be plenty long enough to be accurate, Constructor's advice about getting the crown checked with a borescope is good. With a stock trigger I've gotten sub-moa accuracy from a variety of 16-18" 5.56 & 6.8 barrels in the ar-15 platform. Different loads work better with different barrels, SSA's 110 pro hunters work well for me, lots of guys like their 110 BTHP load too.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk

ROPO68
10-20-2011, 03:16 PM
oh and in case you guys never noticed, Barrett is selling M468/REC7 uppers for $90.00. Comes with port door and forward assist. Cant beat that anywhere, if you dont mind your receiver saying "Barrett". I grabbed 2.

68WJ
10-20-2011, 05:00 PM
Nice. Saw these too. :a12:

http://www.barrettrifles.com/Store/CatalogImages/18-1147-Product_Primary_Image-thumb.jpg

croc4
10-21-2011, 01:12 AM
Sounds like the scope, I have been having the same issue, PSA upper, BSA scope. Have been fighting this rifle for a while now, some reloads would look promising, then try the same load again and it looked like a shot gun. JUst this past weekend was trying a number of reloads and at the end noticed the reticle was crooked!, scope issue, and that explains the inconsistency I have been seeing. lesson learned ;-(.

OP, if you can try either open sites or another scope then that seems like the best thing to try first.

Croc4